Відео

I've just had mine passed. Inspector didn't use a depth stick, I guess he was old and experienced enough to eye ball the trench and see it met minimum requirements with the grit sand bed. He did however check and take pics of the soil pipe entering the house was lagged and the correct blanking cap used, there was a mechanical stop end installed, sufficient pipe was left under the boundary wall and that a stopcock and drain off was installed in the house. Took no more than 5 mins and he said I can backfill the trench but advised leave some room for the installers should they need to push the pipe from the boundary wall. Now I have to wait upto 16 wait weeks for them to connect. How long did it take for them to connect it for you @lcw diy ? As for quotes, the cheapest I had from an approved WIAPS watersafe installer was £940 inc VAT for moling which isn't a bad price tbh. Others were around 1000-1200. Even if you factor in the cost of the tools: Trench spade, mattock, sds drill, core 117mm core drill, 8X4 metre tarps (because of Manchester rain) and materials for the job 25kg grit sand bags, concrete, 25mm 25metre mdpe pipe, 2X 110mm End cap reducers, 25mm clips, twinwall or soil pipe with a 90 degree elbow, 25mm pipe inserts, stopcock, waterproof gaffer tape, drain valve, lagging it will come in less than the £550 grant you receive, leaving you quids in and even more if you already have the tools. P.S I recommend people attempting this use a good heavy 5lb + mattack and the correct shape spade for digging as compacted soil and clay is easier to slice through and dig out. Also be careful around other utilities (gas, electric and waste) you can always find out from your council house plans where these services are laid and they will beburried higher than your current lead pipe so you will encounter them first if it's within your new pipe's path. Also mix up and throw some cement around the where the soil pipe enters the house from the outside and inside, this will stop any water ingress from entering your house as the 117mm core hole will leave a small gap around your 110mm soil pipe or Twinwall duct. See pics: imgur.com/a/2g20KLy

This video should be called how not to do it

How would I disconnect the old main room thermometer/thermastate and bridge it off please

This is honestly one of the better DIY lead replacement videos, and I have seen a lot. Regulations followed and no shortcuts or compromises made. I also have a United Utilities supplied waste and water services.

Very helpful video. Is there a reason you used straight reducer 22 to 15mm just before 15mm tee estate of using 22x15x15mm tee reducer, that's on 16:31 min

Yes all good but you could join black and brown wires together in boiler...

united utilities have a grant for replacing lead pipes, they will pay up to £550 of the cost it takes you to replace the lead pipe with your boundaries.

Thanks for sharing your knowledge! Stupid question: Where does the water go? Just through the waste hole and straight … ehm … outside?

Great video thanks!

Good job, but if you have to do two coats with paint tins at £9 each and want to save time, Zinzzer Bins is about £23 from Screwfix for 1 litre.

Thanks Lee for a good video, what's the back up for when the Wi-fi goes down?

Just what iv been looking for, thanks for making it clear and in simple terms , defo subscribing to you 😊

Any chance of the pipes freezing in the U.K. using this method?

How will I came to know where the gate valve from the main when I want to tap water from the main

Thnx I have learnt some thing

Good work done

Does the connection change on the wireless receipter for opentherm?

Any water base paint will activate the surface and bubble.if you plaster over old wallpapered surfaces they will bubble because there is still a residue that you won’t be able to get rid of . You need to seal with pigmented surfaces with is oil based.

If you don’t seal walls they will blister with any water based paint, you need to use a pigmented sealer with is solvent based

You are all wrong that’s terrible. Gutt the room and re do , you have to piggy seal before you do anything with the wall to seal off

Hi there , what top coat you use on . ? Thanks

Great video. The screws and bolts you link to. Would they work on the top of the door runner? And what head is that for a socket set?

Should I turn off the power to my boiler? The installation guide says to but you don’t?

Hello Lee, my lead pipe seems to be leaking in my front garden [ hopefully ] water company inspector came round and agreed to replace old lead pipe from pavement main cock to about 2 meter in front of my front door, Could you please advice me why you did not use 32mm MDPE Pipe? I need to decide to choose should I use 25mm or 32MM. Thanks. P. J. April 2024

Thank you. Very good.

Great video mate. Is it possible to just fill the big hole with bonding? Or do you need to plaster board it?

Hi, Great video, really useful info’ for us house renovators. Can I ask what elbow you used in the 110mm ‘drain’ pipe through the wall/foundations, was it just a standard 90 degree? The reason I ask is I thought the blue water pipe was quite stiff and had a minimum bend radii that would prevent going through a tight bend?. TIA

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Great video I have same wallpaper and Ur video was helping alot

Who's here because they have a shower in the basement

What oil based paint did you use with the meths spirits plz

Great vid. Love the natural presenting style. The editing. The information you shared 🙏

I installed tado followed every step all the wiring it's right but heter not turn on if I us my old thermostat it's working. It still my old thermostat it connected it's wireless any idea how to deactivate old thurmo start

Thanks for this, I just bought a cordless one to tackle overgrown ivy in garden and couldn't work out how to insert blades (69 year old female) £28 ebay.

Legend, thank you!

Thank you very much for this useful video; today I just installed same smart thermostat luckily I do have same combi boiler as you here in the presentation, job done in about 1.5 hrs hassle free! again, many thanks! 🍻🍻🍻

As all others have said you did an excellent job well done . I’m an old retired plumber and should have done my own years back at 78 don’t fancy the graft .

I'm surprised the solder 'took' after all the flux had run away or evaporated in the first four miutes.

You can left black wire as come and then no link requared on receiver

Was hoping I could lay pavers over exisiting path. The path is fine just ugly.

I allready have a wired ut2 programmer and a wired thermostat Could I just remove these unsightly items and wire direct to the boiler like the video and use the wireless setup

Good video mate appreciate it, i used the wiring coming off of my old wired thermostat in my hallway which is right next to the router and bridge i had 4 wires in there which went up to the honeywell junction box in the airing cupboard i just rewired the honeywell box as i didnt see any point in having another set of wiring coming out the boiler, i bridged the old thermostat blocks in the honeywell and put the old thermostat wiring to central heating control all working good I've also left my old drayton ip722 timer in place to do the hotwater and can also use the drayton as back up for central heating encase tado servers or internet goes down so we can use manual override.

Great Video. I have an Ideal Vogue Max combi boiler which is about 2 years old and is run via Halo thermostat set up. Would I be able to install just the Tado Smart thermostat valves and Internet bridge to some of my radiators without the need of installing the Tado hub? I have read that as long as my boiler is compatible with Opentherm and 240v, my Ideal boiler will work? Can you please advise? Thanks so much, Ian

can't believe you moved to the dump called Fleetwood, been here for years and still a dump.

The programming seems complex, what i like about the salus it500 is that the app is very simple to use and to program teh schedule is even simpler. You can also control the heating via a portal on the internet from any laptop.

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Many thanks for this video which I have watched many times before purchasing the Tado. I followed the Tado instructions initially which included linking the HW even though my boiler is a WB greenstar30i similar to yours in the video. My controller mounted on boiler was a RF comfort which I left in situ. On completion I had problem with the boiler not firing up and I had to revert to original installation and reset the controller. Today I removed the controller and wired up as per your video and all is working fine. When I started the install I selected the RF comfort controller and Tado said that the system wasn’t compatible but I then selected green star boiler and all went well. Can I bring your attention to the video at around 24:48 where you connect the purple link . This should be from L to CH COM but on looking closely your link is across the L and N input - surely this would blow fuses being directly across the mains ? Again many thanks for taking time to upload this video Kind regards Howard

completely the wrong product really painful to watch this

Thank you for the video it’s really helpful! 😊

PVA before painting is a no-no. The paint will just reactivate the PVA.